How To Make An Industrial Serving Tray
How to make an industrial serving tray is bookmark about Woodworking bookmarked by lee with ID 12858688197 was uploaded on 20-03-2019 and has been viewed 332,507 times.
Pipe and Barnwood This industrial serving tray is constructed of vintage oak barn wood and trimmed with black iron handles.Hardwood pegs add a touch of hand-wrought charm.If you can operate a saw and drill, you can make this industrial serving tray in few hours.
Materials Needed to Make this Industrial Serving Tray 1 Barnwood board: 9-1/2" wide x 1" thick x 10' long (2) 3/4" black iron pipes, 8" long (4) 3/4" black iron floor flanges (4) 3/4" black iron elbows (16) #8 slotted steel wood screws (1) 3/4" #8 wood scr*w (2) 1/2" hardwood plugs TSP, salt, vinegar, hydrogen peroxide Wood glue Stain Spray polyurethane Can polyurethane Tools Needed for Your Industrial Serving Tray Table saw (or circular saw with straightedge guide) Radial saw Carpenter's square Biscuit joiner (optional) Orbital sander with 120-grit disks Drill with 1/8" bit 1/2" sp*d* bit Hammer Phillips screwdriver Slotted-tip screwdriver Wood clamps Flush-cut saw Soap or candle 220-grit sandpaper Approximate Cost: $45 plus lumber Inspect the Board We are working with a single board of white oak, reclaimed from a barn in Minnesota that was destroyed by a tornado.
If you plan to use authentic barnwood for your industrial serving tray, be sure to carefully inspect the boards for nails and remove them.Make sure the wood is sound throughout, and not rotted and powdery.
If there is paint on one side of the board, assume that it is lead-based.Dust from lead-based paint is toxic, so you should not sand paint from the board.Using the instructions in "How to Remove Lead Paint Safely," scrape off any loose paint.
When it's time to apply a finish, just brush on a topcoat to that side.Whether it's the top or bottom of the serving tray is up to you and the effect you're going for.Square the End Use a carpenter's square to make a perpendicular cut on one end.
This gives you a baseline so the rest of your cuts can be square.Cut the Pieces We were able to get all the necessary pieces for our industrial serving tray from a 9-1/2".x 10' board.If you're working with a similar size board, cut the pieces out as shown, being careful to preserve the naturally distressed edges on most of the cuts.
You should end up with the following lengths: Two 4-1/2" x 26" boards, each with one natural edge One 4-1/2" x 26" board with clean edges Two 3-1/2" x 13-3/4" boards, each with one natural edge Ripping long boards is much easier with table saw! If you don't have one yet, see "Best Portable Table Saw Reviews" before you buy.
Arrange the Boards Arrange the three 4-1/2" boards as shown.The board with the clean-cut edges goes in the middle.Barnwood boards may be warped and uneven, so experiment to find the order that works best.
If possible, keep the most characteristic, beautiful texture on the same side.That will be the top of your industrial serving tray.Mark the Joins If you're using a biscuit joiner, make a mark every few inches across the boards where the biscuits will go.
If you don't have biscuit joiner, see these instructions on edge joining with glue.Cut the Slots Cut the biscuit slots at each mark.If you're not familiar with biscuit joiners, see this great article on how to use one.
Insert the Biscuits Dip the biscuits into wood glue and insert them into the slots on one side of the pair of boards that you will be joining.Apply a thin layer of glue along that board's edge.You'll want to be sure there's no glue on visible wood, so see this info on how to apply glue and clean away the excess.
Clamp Tightly Together Put the boards together and clamp firmly.Wood scraps on the end will help keep the boards level and prevent marks from the clamps.Let the glue dry for 24 hours.See these tips on how to clamp like a champ.
Smooth the Wood Depending on your tastes and the condition of the board, you could skip this step and simply seal the rough barnwood once the pieces are attached.(Remember, if your barnwood is painted, it should not be sanded.
) We are going for a smoother, more hand-worked appearance for our industrial serving tray, so we're using 120-grit disks on an orbital sander to remove the oxidized surface and smooth away splinters.Hate sanding? Here are some ideas on how to get through the job faster.
But Keep Some Texture We don't want to lose all that beautiful character, though, so we're careful not to sand off the saw marks and the other natural distressing characteristic of the industrial style.
Position the Top Boards Place the 3-1/2" x 13-3/4" boards perpendicularly on the top surface of your industrial serving tray, keeping the clean cut edges to the outside.Make sure they are flush on the top, bottom and side edges.
Find the center of the board, measuring side-to-side and lengthwise, then drill a 3/4" deep hole with a 1/8" drill bit.Drill a Countersink for the Peg Use a 1/2" sp*d* bit to drill a 1/4" deep hole in that spot.
Attach the Top Boards Lightly glue the underside of the boards, then attach them using a 3/4" #8 wood screw.Here's how to drive screws perfectly.Clamp Overnight Clamp the top boards to the industrial serving tray.
Clean off the excess glue.Allow the glue to dry at least overnight before removing the clamps.Clean the Iron Pipe and Fittings Use TSP (trisodium phosphate) to clean the pipe fittings.This will help str*p off the waxy coating often found on black iron pipes.
Rinse thoroughly and dry by hand.TSP is also great for cleaning woodwork prior to repainting.See more tips on how to paint a room fast.Corrode the Scr*w Heads In keeping with the vintage, industrial look, use steel slotted screws instead of Phillips head screws.
To avoid a shiny, new appearance, soak the screws at least overnight in a solution of vinegar, salt and hydrogen peroxide.If the scr*w heads are resisting corrosion, buff them lightly with fine-grit sandpaper, then spritz them with the salt, vinegar and hydrogen peroxide solution, allowing them to air dry.
Repeat if needed.Position the Handles Assemble the handles and position them on each top board, centering side-to-side and lengthwise.Make sure you rotate the fl*ng* so the holes are accessible with a screwdriver.
Mark and drill the scr*w holes using a 1/8" drill bit for the #8 wood screws you'll use later.Tip: You may want to mark the underside of the flanges to indicate which handle goes on which side of the industrial serving tray.
Seal the Handles Lightly coat the handles with a satin polyurethane spray to give them a consistent soft shine and protect the metal from corrosion.Two light coats are better than one heavy one, which could cause drips.
Peg the Holes Put a drop of glue inside the holes and tap a hardwood plug into each.Allow the glue to dry.If the plug protrudes above the board, cut it flush with a flat serrated blade, such as a flush-cut saw.
You can find hardwood plugs at most hardware stores.If you'd like the pegs to blend in with the surrounding board, use plugs cut from your project scraps and line up the grain.Here's how to make decorative wood plugs.
Distress the Clean Edges Use a wood rasp to roughen the clean edges of the top boards on your industrial serving tray.If you're working with new boards from a lumber store, now's the time to add distressing to give your serving tray a vintage look.
You'll find several interesting techniques for aging wood here, including alternatives to staining.Final Sanding Smooth the rasped edges and anywhere else on your industrial serving tray that might still have splinters.
Keep in mind that the tray may be placed on a bedspread or upholstered ottoman, so pay particular attention to the bottom side and sand down any areas that might catch on fabric.Choose a Stain Color Use scraps for testing stain colors.
Remember that the surface texture and topcoat (varnish, polyurethane, etc.) can alter the final appearance, so be sure test on sanded scraps and apply the topcoat before making your decision.Here's more on how to get the stain color you want.
Apply the Stain The good news is that a rustic, industrial serving tray like this looks better when it's not perfect, so don't sweat the staining.We used one coat of a water-based stain from General Finishes called Antique Oak.
Just brush it on and wait a few minutes before wiping it off with a rag.Let the stain dry for 6 to 8 hours.Here's more info on staining wood.Finish with a Topcoat We applied two coats of Minwax Fast-Drying Polyurethane in a Clear Satin sheen, with a light hand-sanding using 220-grit paper in between coats.
Always stir polyurethane well before using—never shake it, as that can cause bubbles.Here are more tips on how to get a smooth polyurethane finish.Screw in the Handles It's easy to accidentally str*p slotted screws, especially when working with hardwoods.
And if your scr*w threads are rusty, they'll be even more difficult to drive into the wood.A little bar soap or candle wax in the threads will make it easier.Want more tips like that? See "15 Revolutionary Techniques for Driving Screws.
" Enjoy! Your finished serving tray will be a solid, beautiful statement of industrial style that will last for years to come...